Skin aging and the aesthetic medicine management: what is the role of dermocosmetics?
Keywords:
skin aging, photoaging, oxidative stress, dermocosmetics, retinoids, hyaluronic acidAbstract
Background: Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is genetically determined and occurs naturally over time, leading to a gradual decline in the skin's structural and functional integrity. Extrinsic aging, also known as photoaging, is primarily caused by environmental factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and lifestyle choices like smoking and diet. The combined effect of these factors results in common signs of skin aging, including wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dryness, and hyperpigmentation.
Aim: To provide an overview of the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging and highlight the role of dermocosmetics in mitigating visible signs.
Methods: A narrative synthesis of published literature addressing intrinsic and extrinsic drivers of skin aging, as well as evidence-based dermocosmetic interventions.
Results: To combat skin aging, dermocosmetics play a crucial role by offering products that target these visible signs. Key active ingredients in anti-aging dermocosmetics include retinoids, antioxidants, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. Retinoids, such as retinol, are vitamin A derivatives that promote cell turnover and collagen production, reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture. Antioxidants like vitamin C and E neutralize free radicals, which are responsible for oxidative stress and skin damage. Hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin, plumping it and reducing the appearance of fine lines. In addition to these ingredients, sunscreens are essential in preventing further photoaging by protecting the skin from harmful UV rays.
Conclusions: Regular and combined use of dermocosmetics, together with photoprotection and healthy lifestyle choices, can effectively delay and mitigate visible signs of skin aging, supporting both skin health and quality of life.
References
1. Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, Maibach HI. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008; 30(2):87-95.
2. He X, Wan F, Su W, Xie W. Research progress on skin aging and active ingredients. Molecules. 2023; 28(14):5556.
3. Verschoore M, Nielson M. The rationale of anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. J drugs dermatol. 2017; 16(6):s94-s97.
4. Zargaran D, Zoller F, Zargaran A, Weyrich T, Mosahebi A. Facial skin ageing: key concepts and overview of processes. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022; 44(4):414-420.
5. Lin ZC, Hsu CY, Hwang E, Wang PW, Fang JY. The role of cytokines/chemokines in an aging skin immune microenvironment. Mech Ageing Dev. 2023; 210:111761.
6. Zhang S, Duan E. Fighting against skin aging: the way from bench to bedside. Cell Transplant. 2018; 27(5):729-738.
7. Sunder S. Relevant topical skin care products for prevention and treatment of aging skin. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am. 2019; 27(3):413-418.
8. Guan LL, Lim HW, Mohammad TF. Sunscreens and photoaging: a review of current literature. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021; 22(6):819-828.
9. Draelos ZD, Wei L, Sachdev M et al. International consensus on anti-aging dermocosmetics and skin care for clinical practice using the RAND/UCLA appropriateness method. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024; 23(1):1337-1343.
10. Griffiths TW, Watson REB, Langton AK. Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies. Br J Dermatol. 2023; 189(Suppl 1):i17-i23.
11. Zouboulis CC, Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI, Theodoridis A, Elewa R, Makrantonaki E. Aesthetic aspects of skin aging, prevention, and local treatment. Clin Dermatol. 2019; 37(4):365-372.
12. Spierings NMK. Evidence for the efficacy of over-the-counter vitamin A cosmetic products in the improvement of facial skin aging: a systematic review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2021; 14(9):33-40.
13. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019; 36(4):392-397.
14. Enescu CD, Bedford LM, Potts G, Fahs F. A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022; 21(6):2349-2359.
15. Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021; b10(8):1315.
16. Bravo B, Correia P, Gonçalves Junior JE, Sant'Anna B, Kerob D. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: from literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatol Ther. 2022; 35(12):e15903.
17. Shin SH, Lee YH, Rho NK, Park KY. Skin aging from mechanisms to interventions: focusing on dermal aging. Front Physiol. 2023; 14:1195272
18. Bartoletti C.A.: Dossier dermo-cosmetologico per un check-up cutaneo secondo il protocollo di Bartoletti e Ramette (Mediskin check up). La Medicina Estetica. 1989; 13,1:1-14.
19. Bartoletti E, Tomaselli F.: Manuale di Medicina Estetica. Tomo 1. Approccio diagnostico. Parma. Acta Medica Edizioni. 2014; 2:23–28; 10:131-156.
20. Pourang A, Tisack A, Ezekwe N, et al. Effects of visible light on mechanisms of skin photoaging. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2022; 38(3):191-196.
21. Avola R, Graziano ACE, Pannuzzo G, Bonina F, Cardile V. Hydroxytyrosol from olive fruits prevents blue-light-induced damage in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. J Cell Physiol. 2019; 234(6):9065-9076.
22. Campiche R, Curpen SJ, Lutchmanen-Kolanthan V et al. Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020; 42(4):399-406.
23. Dong K, Goyarts EC, Pelle E, Trivero J, Pernodet N. Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019; 41(6):558-562.
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Emanuele Bartoletti, Carlotta Bracchi, Angela Lo Presti , Chiara Sansonetti, Camila Scharf, Elisabetta Fulgione, Maura Secchi

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0) which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Transfer of Copyright and Permission to Reproduce Parts of Published Papers.
Authors retain the copyright for their published work. No formal permission will be required to reproduce parts (tables or illustrations) of published papers, provided the source is quoted appropriately and reproduction has no commercial intent. Reproductions with commercial intent will require written permission and payment of royalties.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
